The Autumn/Winter 2009 Pepe Jeans London women’s range present a collection for both the young, creative girl and the more sophisticated, fashion conscious woman. The collection looks back to the fashion movements of the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s for inspiration with London remaining the main point of reference. This retrospective is finished off with a look at modern tailoring and sculpted silhouettes. Throughout, Pepe Jeans feminises branded prints and embroidered motifs that have for 35 years been a recognisable symbol of quality, premium clothing.
The 1950’s ‘rockabilly’ range showcases a silhouette that is hourglass or full in shape; ranging from skinny pencil skirts, figure hugging dresses through to full circular skirts. Biker jackets, trendy pea coats and classic rain macs make up the strong outerwear offer. Trouser legs become typically narrow and are styled with t-shirts inspired by pin-ups from this time. This story is a graphic statement where anything goes; tartans are mixed with bright ginghams, leopard print, polka dots and bold stripes to create visually exciting cotton base fabrics.
In homage to the 1960s, ‘cute’ features a number of diverse trends typical of this era and plays with pattern and texture. In a decade where British style was prominent London’s , home to Pepe Jeans’ flagship store, was a virtual fashion parade. For this young, creative girl dresses are fun with hints of retro influence; from the light tweed two-in-one pinafore to the English tea dress with a shirt-like bodice and gathered skirt. Tweed textures and floral print look great with ‘of the moment’ wide leg jeans. Key design features on tops include oversized buttons and bows with graphically sweet retro prints and branding.
The ‘street’ story caters for the urban girl who is influenced by London’s popular culture. Sporty blouson jackets and reversible gilets are layered with digitally inspired printed t-shirts. These can be worn with multi pocket combat pants; bottoms in washed out cottons are laminated with a high density shine to give a modern twist to this distinctly ‘inner-city’ aesthetic. Denim is washed out or vegetable dyed in either boyfriend or slim style. Colours for the younger girl include primary tones of navy blue, ecru, red and dark green with hints of mustard, strawberry and emerald. Street colours are military green, grey and blue with highlights of violet pink and yellow for an injection of vibrant colour.
The more directional woman embraces 1970s style with a vintage trench and a classic pea coat. Fashions are motivated by extravagantly-dressed rock stars; satin and stretch velvet trousers or denims are ‘bell-bottomed’ in shape. Dresses with bright geometric allover prints work with cashmere jersey and soft striped knits, perfectly encapsulating the 1970s vibe. Garments are altered with folk embroideries, metal sequins and hand drawn graphics – all typical of the time. ‘Modern tailoring’ is a clean, contemporary exploration of new suiting silhouettes and proportions. A sleek oversized suit jacket or waistcoat is worn with super slim black jeans and tailored pants. These are combined with a fitted tuxedo jacket and a simple graphic t-shirt for a smart yet casual look. Fabrics are cool and understated; wools sit with crisp poplins, satin, shimmering jersey and silk knits.
The ‘sculptural’ line is architectural and futuristic in form. This industrial story experiments with new volume and drapes. Expect to pair voluminous, structured coats in solid, heavy wool fabric with knitwear and dresses that form a cocoon. Long rise harem pants taper at the ankle to create a dramatic, feminine silhouette. Soft twills, washed silks, mercerized jersey and transparent micro modal create perfect contrasting drapes to soften this hard look. The colour palette is ultra modern. Blacks and cool grey tones are punctuated with strong new tones of purple, red, green and blue. Monochrome colours are highlighted with modern tones of pink and blue.
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